How much climbers downsize, by shoe model

Every foot scan asks which climbing shoes you own and how you size them compared to your street shoe size. This is the data this article provides as insight. The table shows models with at least ten owner reports; switch it to five to see roughly twice as many models, with obviously a bit less evidence behind each. It is live either way, recomputing from the scan database on every page load, so a model's number moves as reports come in. Run a quick scan to help us grow the database.

2,527 sizing reports from 1,875 foot scans, across 284 models. Auto updated with every new scan.

How much should you size down climbing shoes?

  • 69% of users size down, 19% take their street size and 11% size up.
  • The median across every model is -1 EU from street size, but the model you pick moves that by 2.5 EU sizes, from the La Sportiva Skwama at -2 to the Five Ten Hiangle at +0.5.

Brand patterns

Pooled over every model with 5 or more reports. Brands with only one such model are left out, since there a brand's median is just that shoe's.

  • La Sportiva: -1.5 EU (875 reports across 34 models)
  • Tenaya: -1.5 EU (143 reports across 9 models)
  • Scarpa: -1 EU (672 reports across 30 models)
  • Mad Rock: -0.5 EU (147 reports across 9 models)
  • Unparallel: -0.5 EU (64 reports across 7 models)
  • Five Ten: 0 EU (46 reports across 5 models)
  • Butora: 0 EU (21 reports across 3 models)
  • Simond: 0 EU (56 reports across 5 models)
  • Evolv: 0 EU (104 reports across 10 models)
  • Ocun: 0 EU (38 reports across 4 models)
  • Red Chili: 0 EU (14 reports across 2 models)

Climbing shoes with sufficient fit feedback

Negative means size down. Medians land on whole or half sizes, because those are the sizes shoes are sold in. Offset from street size in EU sizes.

ShoeLevelStiffnessMedianMeanReports
La Sportiva Skwamaaggressive0.34-2-1.8103
Tenaya Indaloaggressive0.40-2-1.845
La Sportiva Ondra Compaggressive0.34-2-1.929
La Sportiva Mandalaaggressive0.48-2-1.929
La Sportiva Theoryaggressive0.24-2-1.825
Tenaya Mastiaaggressive0.40-2-1.822
La Sportiva Skwama Women'saggressive0.34-2-1.820
La Sportiva Solution Comp Womanaggressive0.34-2-1.816
La Sportiva Miuramoderate0.56-2-1.916
La Sportiva Solution Women'saggressive0.34-2-1.814
La Sportiva Geniusaggressive0.59-2-2.010
La Sportiva Solutionaggressive0.43-1.5-1.364
La Sportiva Katana Lacemoderate0.68-1.5-1.651
La Sportiva Solution Compaggressive0.34-1.5-1.637
La Sportiva Kuboslight0.60-1.5-1.136
La Sportiva Tarantula Boulderflat0.59-1.5-1.636
La Sportiva Skwama Veganaggressive0.34-1.5-1.527
La Sportiva Miura VSmoderate0.56-1.5-1.619
Tenaya Oasimoderate0.34-1.5-1.516
La Sportiva Mythosflat0.60-1.5-1.015
La Sportiva Mantraaggressive0.17-1.5-1.514
Scarpa Instinctmoderate0.45-1.5-1.612
La Sportiva Kubo Womanslight0.57-1.5-1.211
Scarpa Instinct VSRmoderate0.38-1-1.092
La Sportiva Tarantulaflat0.59-1-0.973
Scarpa Instinct VSR LVmoderate0.38-1-1.171
Scarpa Drago LVaggressive0.28-1-0.966
Scarpa Instinct VSmoderate0.41-1-0.958
Scarpa Dragoaggressive0.28-1-1.057
Scarpa Veloceslight0.31-1-0.843
La Sportiva Finaleslight0.66-1-1.040
Scarpa Drago XTaggressive0.28-1-1.131
La Sportiva Skwama Liteslight0.64-1-1.228
La Sportiva Otakimoderate0.68-1-1.325
Scarpa Instinct VS Women'smoderate0.38-1-0.922
La Sportiva TC Proflat0.60-1-1.120
La Sportiva Katanamoderate0.68-1-1.018
Scarpa Arpia Vslight0.44-1-0.616
Tenaya Iatiaggressive0.48-1-1.012
Scarpa Magoaggressive0.38-1-1.010
Scarpa Furia Airaggressive0.26-1-0.810
Scarpa Vapor Vslight0.55-0.5-0.544
Mad Rock D2.ONE HVaggressive0.60-0.5-0.539
La Sportiva Tarantulaceflat0.59-0.5-0.629
Mad Rock Remora Pro HVaggressive0.37-0.5-0.520
Black Diamond Momentumflat0.46-0.5-0.315
Scarpa Vaporslight0.65-0.5-0.514
Evolv Kronosflat0.60-0.5-0.513
Tenaya Tantaslight0.36-0.5-0.813
La Sportiva Pythonmoderate0.30-0.5-1.013
Unparallel Flagshipaggressive0.45-0.5-0.613
Unparallel TN Proaggressive0.69-0.5-0.212
Scarpa Helixflat0.45-0.5-0.311
Tenaya Mundakamoderate0.34-0.5-0.811
Mad Rock Roverslight0.60-0.5-0.110
Evolv Shamanaggressive0.510+0.228
Mad Rock Drone 2 HVaggressive0.840-0.426
Simond Klimbflat0.350+0.122
Mad Rock Drone CS HVaggressive0.580-0.121
Simond Vertikamoderate0.510-0.215
Scarpa Originflat0.4700.013
Ocun Ozoneslight0.420+0.313
La Sportiva Finale Women'sflat0.660-0.612
Scarpa Origin VSflat0.520+0.111
Ocun Bullitslight0.330+0.211
Scarpa Vapor V Women'sslight0.550+0.110
Five Ten Hiangleaggressive0.54+0.5-0.121
Evolv Defyflat0.31+0.5+0.616

Method

Each report is one owner naming a shoe he currently climbs, the EU size they take in it and the EU street size they wear. The number plotted is worn size minus street size. 2,527 reports across 284 models survive filtering; at the ten-report bar, 68 models qualify and carry 1835 of those reports. The size-down / same / size-up split above is per CLIMBER across all 1875 scans, not per report: a climber who names three shoes counts once, on the median of their own reports. Reports more than 4 EU sizes from street size are dropped as street and climbing sizes entered the wrong way round. Repeat scans are merged: retakes and both-feet sessions count as 1 feedback. Shop links may earn us a commission at identical prices to you.

Questions

How much should you size down climbing shoes?

Most climbers size down, but there is no single number, because the model moves the answer further than any rule of thumb does. The table gives a median for each model and the histogram beside it shows how wide the range is within that model, which is the row to use rather than an average across all shoes.

Why does my shop recommend a different size?

Shops quote the manufacturer's guidance, which is one number for the model. This table reports what owners did, which spreads across a range because a comfort fit and a performance fit are different targets in the same shoe. The histogram beside each median shows that range.

Does a more downturned shoe need more downsizing?

Directionally, and less than the label suggests. Pooling the reports in the table by the shoe's downturn, only the aggressive group separates; flat, slight and moderate land on the same median. Which brand made the shoe moves the number further than how downturned it is.

My model is not in the table.

Two bars are offered. At 10 or more reports, the default, fewer models qualify but each row is worth comparing against the others; at 5 or more, roughly twice as many appear, each resting on less. Once your model reaches five fit reports it appears in the 5+ view.

Scan your feet for free. You get your foot measurements and tailored shoe recommendations based on your foot form and use case. As a bonus, you help us provide better fit and sizing advice. Scan your feet. More on fit from the same scan database: the best climbing shoes for narrow heels, narrow heels versus shallow heels and, for the individual reports behind every median here keyed to your own foot shape, which climbing shoes fit your foot shape.

All insights